They call New Orleans the Big Easy, but yesterday was big, but not easy, as I spent my first full day here, prior to the start of Tales of the Cocktail. I am one of the 24 judges for the 2008 Ministry of Rum Tasting Competition, a strict rum judging event coordinated by the Ministry of Rum at Tales. There was a long list of people who were considered as judges for this event and Ed Hamilton, the head of the Ministry, spent several weeks winnowing down the list to some of the top rummies around.
We met at the famous Arnauds restaurant for the event. As we chatted before the judging began it soon became evident just how knowledgeable this crew was. Rum distillers, importers, writers and bloggers, and of course rum collectors. I thought I had a nice collection of spirits with over 500 bottles, of which around 100 of them are exceptional rums. I've given away more than that of mediocre rums over the past year or three, saving just the best. One of my fellow judges has over 800 top of the line rums in his collection. The least of which makes my best look like a cheap $1.99 pint of generic white rumbullion. When you have pre-embargo Cuban rums and rums over 100 years old in your collection you're on a different level of connoisseurship than I. I just want to try some little 1/4 ounce sips of a few dozen of his collection one day and I'll be happy. Just the thought has me drooling like a drunk.
So I'm guilty of impaired riding. Carousel riding that is. Like many fans of the Cocktail, I'm down in New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail for the next week and having a blast. Within a few minutes of getting to my hotel in the French Quarter, the Hotel Monteleone, I was sitting on a carousel and bellied up to the bar all at the same time. The famous carousel bar in the hotel turns at a leisurely four times per hour, which is negligible at first, but seems to speed up as the drinks slide down. I ordered one of my favorite cocktails, a Vieux Carré, which was invented here by Walter Bergeron in 1938, and sat back to enjoy the ride. Every now and then a friend would stop by for a chat, having to do a side step shuffle every few moments to keep up with the stately procession of the Carousel. I came to call this the Vieux Carré Strut, and soon it became one of the most popular dances at Tales.
Vieux Carré is another name for the French Quarter, meaning "The Old Square," and this fabulous drink fits right in, no wonder Bergeron called it such. The decor in the Carousel Bar is a mix of a fine lounge and antique amusement park, with an elegant feel. That is until the whole crew descended upon the establishment. Then it became more like a cross between the Midway, and the Fun House. Now if only they had the carousel horses like in Mary Poppins. I can imagine my fine friends from Tales gallumphing off the Carousel and taking a turn 'round the Monteleone, refreshing themselves along the way as we stop hither and yon for fine cocktails. Then after making our way through all the laudatory libations, a few circuits of the Queen Anne Ballroom to the tune of a waltz, zig zagging among the masked dancers; before heading out onto the streets of Vieux Carré showing the world how to do Tales in style.
Recipe for the Vieux Carré Cocktail after the jump.
On July 1, 2008 at 6:30 pm the Astor Center in New York City will be hosting the seminar The Wonderful World of Sherry: A Food Pairing. Roger Kugler, Sommelier of Suba Restaurant and Wine Director of Boqueria Restaurant will lead a discussion and tasting of those beautiful and complex fortified wines and how they pair so well with various foods.
Roger has an extensive background in wines, with a strong focus on those from Spain. He is interviewed often and has been mentioned in, and tasted wines on panels, for the New York Times. This seminar looks like it will be a fun, entertaining, and educational event for those who want to know more about his oxidized elixir from Spain. The courses and dinners at the Astor Center are truly marvelous, and having been to quite a few, I heartily recommend them.
I've never been able to afford Johnnie Walker Blue, though I am partial to the Black variety. Russians, though, seem to have no problem affording it. The land of vodka and harsh winters is now the biggest market for the world's priciest Scotch whisky according to the Financial Times.
Vodka still accounts for more than 90 per cent of the country's spirits sales, largely because Russians are not used to the taste of whisky or gin. Despite this barrier sales of costly libations have been rising largely due to the populations increased wealth.
Last year Russia became the first European country to import the "King George V" edition of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, which can go for up to $1,000. That's quite a markup over the everyday version, which sells for a mere $180 a bottle.
That's right, hands on! You will get a chance to sling back the shaker in the kitchen at the Astor Center, as you learn from Dr. Dave how to make drinks from the best recipes of the Golden Age of Cocktails (1820-1920.) Folks, this is a once in a lifetime chance to learn from the best, to stand side by side with the expert on cocktails and their history, and have him teach you to make drinks that haven't seen the light of day in over a century. Two hours of shaking, stirring, muddling, mixing, and of course tasting the results. Please make sure you have a designated driver or taxi for afterwards. I predict it's going to get drunk out.
I can't think of anything better to do on a Sunday afternoon in late March. Can You? As a special bonus from Slashfood and the Astor Center, we offer you a special 15% discount. Just use code SF033008 when you sign up for the course online. See you there.
Irish Whiskey sales in the US are a drop in the glass compared to American whiskey and bourbon, but that's changing fast. Sales in the past year have increased 20% and has been one of the fastest growing spirits categories the past five years.
Part of this is that more and more is being sent to the US, with new premium bottling's joining the fray. Besides the whiskey blends, you have Single Malts, Single Grains, and the unique Pure Pot Still whiskeys. Jameson has started shipping some of these and sales are through the roof. You may see Jameson "Gold Reserve go for $60 and the top-end Rarest Vintage Reserve at $250 and up" Every now and then I get offered a taste of these treats and Faith and Begorra, it makes me glad to be an honorary Irishman for the day today, just so I can toss one back. Of course most of the Irish whiskey isn't drunk on St. Paddys Day, but year round, as one of the premium whiskey styles in the world. So have a taste of the Irish, Sláinte!
Zuidam Genever Gin is 40% abv. / 80 proof and is a Genever or Holland style gin that is very different from the London Dry style of gin since it is based on malt liquor rather than neutral spirits. Genever is considered the original style of gin and is heavier and sweeter. Zuidam Genever can be considered the beefier cousin to Zuidam Dry Gin that I reviewed a few years ago, although it is much lighter and more refined than typical Genever's.
The aroma is big, warm, malty; with a solid juniper base overlain with a variety of herbs and spices like juniper, licorice root, vanilla, aniseed and marjoram which are some of the botanicals used in this gin.
The taste starts out with the malty, almost whiskey-like base rapidly followed by juniper, licorice, and aniseed. Spicy, big, but not over the top. This is very different from both London Dry styles and other Genever's I've tried. it's somewhere in the middle, but leaning more towards the musky complexity of the Genever family. Genever is usually drunk ice cold in small, short stemmed shot type glasses (or occasionally on the rocks) and served with food. This is very much in the Scandinavian Aquavit or Russian vodka style of drinking it ice cold during the meal. if you love gin, but are looking for something different, then I recommend you try a Genever, and start out with Zuidam.
Tuaca Liquore Italiano is 35% abv. 70 proof and the color is a beautiful amber gold.
The aroma starts off with a big, smooth, rich hit of vanilla and buttery notes; followed by a subtle orange/citrus with hints of spices that puts you in mind of the aroma of an adult version of a creamsicle orange/vanilla ice cream pop. One that has been dunked in a fine, aged brandy. As it sits more of the vanilla comes out buoyed up with honey tones.
The taste is slightly sweet and warm, complex, with the same flavors as the aroma but with the vanilla downplayed, but more of the spices coming through, balanced by the medium light body. I first tasted this liqueur in Tim Love's Lonesome Dove Western Bistro in NYC after watching him win on Iron Chef America during the taping a few hours prior. He and his crew had tossed back cold shots every 15 minutes during the competition. So I was curious and ordered a icy shot. I sipped it slowly, rather than tossing it back and very much enjoyed the liqueur. So much so that I have had a bottle in my collection ever since. Tuaca is great sipped in a snifter or on the rocks, in a highball with seltzer, or in the many Tuaca based cocktails.
Gilbey's London Dry Gin is 40% abv. / 80 proof. Although it says "London Dry Gin" this refers to the style, and the gin is made in the US according to the original British recipe.
The aroma is a nice, light and floral juniper base, a hint of sweet orange zest and earthy angelica root floats along on top of a melange of other spices and herbs. This is a classic London Dry style gin. Very aromatic and complex, but clean and dry. Gilbey's is a very pleasant smelling gin; and you can tell that it's well made just from the aroma that must contain at least 8-10 botanicals. I tried to research what the actual botanicals are, but to no avail.
The taste is clean, light, dry, and very smooth. Juniper, spices, citrus, all blended well together so that they don't overwhelm each other. This is one of what I consider the trademarks of a classic London Dry style. This is a gin that can play all the bases; on the rocks, cocktails, highballs. Not expensive, but a great bang for the buck, you can't go wrong; and you could do much worse.
Irish Mist liqueur is 35% abv. / 70 proof and supposedly dates back to a thousand year old recipe for "Heather Wine.'
The color of Irish Mist is a medium amber gold. The aroma is that of fine whiskey, honey, herbs, baking spices, and vanilla notes. It's very full, complex, warm, and enjoyable.
The taste is of sweet Irish whiskey, tempered with honey, vanilla, and baking spices. Like the aroma the taste is warm, complex, and full. I like this straight in a snifter, on the rocks, or in cocktails. It's a perfect after dinner sipper, especially on these cold winter nights when you are snuggled up on the couch gazing into the fire. It's guaranteed to warm you up and mellow you out.
Here are some Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin Cocktails created by Jason Neu of Eddie Martini's in Wauwatosa, WI. I love that name Wow Wa To Sa! It sounds like a toast in Native American. (Actually it means "The Great Walker", A noted Indian Chief from the area.)
Maple Gin Fizz Jason's twist on a gin fizz
2 ounces Rehorst gin 1/2 ounce amaretto 1/2 ounce cream 1 egg white ½ ounce pure maple syrup 1 ounce lemon juice Dash of bitters Seltzer Shake with ice for at least one minute. Strain into a champagne flute and top with a splash of seltzer.
Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin is 44% abv. / 88 proof and is made in Milwaukee, WI by Great Lakes Distillery. I shot off an email to Guy Rehorst and asked him about the botanicals used in his gin and he got back to me immediately. He says it is made with nine botanicals: Juniper, Coriander, Cardamom, Saigon Cassia, Lemon peel, Orange peel, Anise, and two additional botanicals which it seems have never been used before to make a gin; Wisconsin Ginseng and Sweet Basil. Premium Wisconsin Ginseng is considered the finest ginseng in the world and eagerly sought after in Asia.
The aroma is big, really BIG. It instantly makes me think of some of the other new American style big gins out there like Bluecoat, Aviation, Back River, No. 6, etc. but it definitely has its own thing going on when it comes to the specifics. The base aroma is juniper, covered by a blanket of herbs and citrus, earthy roots, floral notes, you name it, but all so well blended that none rises too much above the rest. It's a bewitching and beguiling aroma. This is another one folks. A gin that grabbed me by the nose and I spent minutes just absorbing it all without even taking a taste. I love that the cardamom is present, but not overwhelming, and the hints of anise balance it out. I place this in my top five for best aroma, out of the many gins I have tried over the years.
The taste is very herbal, with the juniper again as a base note. Citrus winks through, a dash of sweetness, followed by a pleasantly sharp, lip tingling tang from the anise and cardamom. My mouth and then sinuses filled up with a burst of botanicals flooding through my head. I added a bit of ice and even more of the big botanical presence came through, a splash of water increased it even more so.
This is a big, big gin. One that says, "Here I am guys... Whatcha gonna do about it!"
Seagram's Distiller's Reserve Gin is 51% abv. / 102 proof and like the Seagram's Extra Dry Gin is aged in oak barrels for a period of time. Seagram's Gin is the only barrel aged gin on the market. Seagram's Distiller's Reserve is the combination of the best of the barrels as selected out of hundreds by Seagram's Master Distiller. The ones that have the richest character and most distinctive aroma and taste are blended at barrel proof strength to create this gin. The higher strength of the spirit is definitely noticeable when sipped straight.
The color is a very pale straw yellow from the barrel aging. The aroma is similar to the Extra Dry, but much more so. The blend of citrus, spices, and juniper is strong, but well balanced. Juniper takes the forefront with citrus holding it up, and the spicy and herbal notes floating along pleasantly behind. Not as bold as some of the new, big, in your face, American gins, the Seagram's Distiller's Reserve sets a new standard in gin as a classically styled, American dry gin.
The flavor is also bolder than the Extra Dry without being too bold. Elegant; mild citrus, juniper, and herbs. This gin will add its input to any cocktail or highball it is in, without demanding the primary role. It makes an excellent G&T where it expresses itself enough to stand up to the tonic, without being brash about it.
Pusser's British Navy Rum is 42% abv. / 84 proof. Pusser's was the official rum of the British Navy. From 1655 until 1740 sailors were issued their ration, called a 'tot' of a pint a day, with a double tot before and after battle. Then the tot was cut to 1/2 a pint a day and then it was mixed with water, and sometimes sugar and lime juice, to make grog. it wasn't until July 31, 1970 that the British Navy finally stopped issuing a daily tot to their sailors. The brand went out of business for a few years and then an enterprising business man bought the recipe and started production of Pusser's rum for the general public in 1979, for which I'm grateful.
The color is a lovely medium coppery gold. The aroma is full of caramel, tropical fruit, floral note, hints of baking spices and faint peppery notes, and sweet and dry comes through. I really like the aroma of Pusser's and I can just sniff it for minutes on end.
The taste is a semi-dry melange of everything in the aroma, caramel, tropical fruits, spices, and more. Complex, long finish, aromatic, yum! I keep a stainless steel hip flask full of Pusser's for when I go out tobogganing and on long winter walks to keep the chill off. I wish I could track down some of the other Pusser's rums to try. Until then I am making do with some of their t-shirts and their colognes.
Stir the vodka, vermouth and ice cubes in a cocktail shaker. Strain into a cocktail glass and dribble the Curaçao Blue over the cocktail. Xellent Heaven is refreshingly heavenly. More recipes after the jump.
I've never been able to afford Johnnie Walker Blue, though I am partial to the Black variety. Russians, though, seem to have no problem affording it. The land of vodka and harsh winters is now the biggest market for the world's priciest Scotch whisky according to the 
Irish Whiskey sales in the US are a drop in the glass compared to American whiskey and bourbon, but that's changing fast. Sales in the past year have increased 20% and has been one of the
Zuidam Genever Gin is 40% abv. / 80 proof and is a Genever or Holland style gin that is very different from the London Dry style of gin since it is based on malt liquor rather than neutral spirits. Genever is considered the original style of gin and is heavier and sweeter. Zuidam Genever can be considered the beefier cousin to 
Tuaca Liquore Italiano is 35% abv. 70 proof and the color is a beautiful amber gold. 
Gilbey's London Dry Gin is 40% abv. / 80 proof. Although it says "London Dry Gin" this refers to the style, and the gin is made in the US according to the original British recipe.
Irish Mist liqueur is 35% abv. / 70 proof and supposedly dates back to a thousand year old recipe for "Heather Wine.'
Here are some Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin Cocktails created by Jason Neu of Eddie Martini's in Wauwatosa, WI. I love that name Wow Wa To Sa! It sounds like a toast in Native American. (Actually it means "The Great Walker", A noted Indian Chief from the area.)
Rehorst Premium Milwaukee Gin is 44% abv. / 88 proof and is made in Milwaukee, WI by 
Seagram's Distiller's Reserve Gin is 51% abv. / 102 proof and like the 
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